Ventura County Public Adjuster

Your Insurance Claim Negotiators

Water Damage Playbook

First 72 Hours After Water Damage

Burst pipe, overflow, slab leak, appliance failure — what to do, in order, before the carrier finds a way to deny you.

Jordan L. Eller · CA Licensed Public Adjuster License #4005444 · CA DRE Broker License #01347939

General guidance, not advice on your specific claim. This checklist describes typical steps after a residential loss. Your policy, carrier, and circumstances determine what actually applies to you. Talk with a licensed public adjuster or attorney before relying on any item here to make claim decisions.
First 24 hours · Stop the water, photograph everything

Day 1 — Stabilize and document

Shut off the water at the main valve immediatelyEvery gallon that flows after you discover the leak weakens your claim. Carriers love to argue "failure to mitigate."
Photograph and video the source AND the damage BEFORE moving anythingWet drywall, soaked carpet, the burst pipe or overflowing fixture itself. The source matters: sudden vs. gradual changes coverage drastically.
Call a licensed water mitigation company same-dayDrying needs to start within 24-48 hours or mold sets in. Carriers can deny mold claims if drying was delayed. Get an emergency response, get receipts.
Move undamaged contents out of the affected areaAnything that might soak through next — wood furniture, electronics, paper, photos. Document where you moved them.
Report the loss to your carrier — get a claim number — but don't estimate yetJust facts: when you found it, what's wet, that mitigation is in progress. Do NOT speculate about cause until you know.
Hours 24–48 · Mitigate aggressively

Day 2 — Lock down the cause

Get a plumber's written diagnosis of the sourceThis single document decides coverage. "Sudden and accidental" pipe break = covered. "Long-term seepage" = often denied. The plumber's words matter.
Save the broken part itself if at all possibleThe failed angle stop, supply line, water heater, fitting — bag it and label it. Carriers sometimes blame you for the failure; physical evidence wins.
Track moisture readings from the mitigation company dailyThese logs prove drying was done correctly. Without them, carriers question whether mold remediation was needed.
Don't sign anything labeled "work authorization with assignment of benefits" without reading carefullySome restoration companies use AOBs to take over your claim. You can use them, but understand what you're signing first.
Continue inventory — flooring, baseboards, drywall, cabinets, appliances, contentsGet model numbers and ages. Cabinets are often replaced as a unit if water wicks up — partial replacement rarely matches.
Hours 48–72 · Set the table

Day 3 — Build your file

Request your full policy in writing from the carrierCalifornia requires delivery within 30 days. Look for water sub-limits, mold caps, and exclusions for slow leaks.
Get an independent contractor estimate for full repairsDemo, drying, replacement, and code upgrades. The carrier's number will almost always come in lower; you need a counterweight.
Decide whether to bring in a public adjusterWater claims get denied or underpaid more often than any other loss type — the cause and scope arguments are technical. Earlier involvement = better outcome.
If you're displaced, save every ALE receiptHotel, restaurants, laundry, pet boarding, increased commute mileage. Most policies cover this for the time it takes to make the home habitable.
Open a dedicated claim file — every call, name, date, promiseWater claim disputes can drag on for months. The paper trail is what wins them.
Red flags to watch for
  • Carrier is calling the loss "long-term" or "gradual" without a plumber's diagnosis
  • Cabinets, flooring, or drywall are being patched instead of properly replaced
  • Mold remediation is denied even though drying was started right away
  • Sub-limits or exclusions are being applied that you weren't aware your policy had

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